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Azelaic acid has numerous beneficial cosmetic applications. Azelaic acid can be used in skincare, haircare and scalpcare products to help address many different skin concerns.
Azelaic acid is beneficial when used for skin lightening and brightening or to maintain under control any hyperpigmentation process. Azelaic acid is also used for the treatment of melasma, lentigo maligna and other disorders of hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is also effective for hypermelanosis caused by physical or photochemical agents, lentigo maligna melanoma as well as other disorders characterized by abnormal proliferation of melanocytes.
Azelaic acid is a natural antimicrobial making it a great alternative to benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. It is better tolerated on sensitive skin and doesn’t require any concentration restrictions. Azelaic acid is thought to work through its antimicrobial activity and normalization of keratinization. Keratinization means the process through which epithelial cells mature, as they move to the surface of the skin and subsequently slough off.
Azelaic acid has been demonstrated to be effective for the treatment of skin prone to rosacea. It is available as a cream or a hydrogel. It reduces inflammatory lesions and erythema in rosacea patients and also inhibits neutrophilic ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species). In the neutrophil system azelaic acid inhibits the ROS formation in a dose-dependent manner, markedly decreasing the number of free radicals.
Azelaic acid is a well-known inhibitor for 5a-reductase and is therefore able to inhibit the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone. Due to the relative absence of dihydrotestosterone regression of the hair follicle will take place (the catagen stage), and subsequently hair generation will take place (the anagen stage).
Azelaic acid is proven to inhibit the 5a-reductase which is the enzyme that will convert testosterone to 5a-dihydrotestosterone which is the major cause of hair loss. Basically if the dihydrotestosterone is eliminated hair loss will be stopped or minimized. Products containing Azelaic Acid, vitamin B6, and Pyridoxine hydrochloride, in low doses show a 90% reduction in this 5a-reductase activity leading to reduction of hair loss and/or many times regrowth.
Azelaic acid has the ability to even out the skin pigmentation, improving the tone and decreasing the redness thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties.
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