Regulation of cosmetic ingredients Kojic acid and Retinol

There are many skincare ingredients on the market that are used in cosmetics products. Two well-known ingredients are Kojic acid and Retinol (Vitamin A). For both ingredients the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) is concerning possible regulatory measures. In this article, we hereby inform you.

The Committee (SCCS) shall provide Opinions on questions concerning health and safety risks (notably chemical, biological, mechanical and other physical risks) of non-food consumer products (for example cosmetic products and their ingredients, toys, textiles, clothing, personal care and household products such as detergents, etc.) and services (for example: tattooing, artificial sun tanning, etc.).

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is an acclaimed secondary metabolite produced by a variety of species, including Aspergillus and Penicillium. Widely known for its ability to reduce skin pigmentation in cosmetics such as lightening/whitening agents, this chemical molecule also serves antioxidant and bleaching functions (CAS No 501-30-4 with EC No 207-922-4; 5 Hydroxy 2-(Hydroxymethyl)- 4Hpyrane – 4 One). Endorsed within the European database CosIng, Kojic Acid stands out among modern skincare ingredients due to its multi functional properties.

The use of Kojic Acid in cosmetics has recently been under scrutiny due to potential endocrine disrupting properties. In response, the European Commission launched a call for data and subsequently submitted evidence that demonstrated its safety when used at 1% concentration or less. After undergoing thorough evaluation by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), it was concluded with finality that this substance is indeed safe for cosmetic products usage as long as kept within recommended levels – thus providing regulatory certainty and piece-of-mind characterizing responsible care from industry towards consumers well being.

Given the opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and stipulations from Article 31 of Regulation (EU) No. 1223/2009, a clear risk to human health may arise when using Kojic Acid at concentrations exceeding 1%. Therefore, stringent regulations have been set in order to ensure safe use for consumers by restricting its concentration level in cosmetics products.

Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate)

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is commonly found in many skincare products. It is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent that helps reduce the signs of aging, like wrinkles, dark spots, and fine lines. It can also improve skin tone, texture and elasticity.

Despite being a widely used skin conditioning agent in cosmetics, Vitamin A is not regulated under the Cosmetics Regulation. In response to health concerns related to its potential adverse effects, industry submitted evidence of safety when included in cosmetic products so that the European Commission asked for an official assessment from the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). After careful review and analysis conducted during 2016 and 2022, SCCS concluded that at specific concentrations up to 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) for body lotions & creams and 0.3 % RE other leave-on or rinse-off makeup applications – Vitamin A can be deemed safe while also noting it has insignificant contribution compared with food supplements/intake levels of vitamins via diet etc.

Despite the potential benefits of using Vitamin A in cosmetic products, it is important to consider both consumer exposure levels and risk to human health. In response, Article 31 on Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR) limits its concentration up to 0.05% for body lotions and 0.3 % RE respectively for other applicable cosmetics applications with a warning that addresses potential issues with overall consumption of Vitamin A among 5% most exposed population group.